Ilfracombe

Ilfracombe, on the rugged North Devon coast, is a quirky harbour town framed by dramatic cliffs, Victorian architecture, and a lively waterfront. It’s not the easiest stop for visiting yachts, but those who time it right are rewarded with a warm welcome, plenty of character, and even a dog-friendly Yacht Club.

This is a true tidal harbour, with a drying outer basin and a small inner harbour accessible only around high water. Timing is everything. After an overnight sail from Milford Haven, we nailed the arrival window, but still came unstuck. We’d been misinformed about when Rimau would take the ground on the ebb and weren’t prepared. When drying out, it’s crucial to run a line around the mast (heeling line) to deliberately lean against the wall. We hadn’t secured this in time. To make matters worse, the sandy seabed proved far harder than expected, so our 4.8-ton Rimau didn’t settle in as gently as anticipated. The result ...

For eight long hours Rimau sat at a jaunty 45 degrees on Ilfracombe beach. Luckily, dogs were welcome, so Svea could trot back and forth to the yacht with ease. Pete and I agreed that as long as nothing was damaged, we’d make a swift exit that evening — and so Ilfracombe became one of our briefest (if most dramatic) stops.

⚓ The Approach

• Waypoint: Approach from the north, keeping a good offing to avoid submerged rocks.

• Hazards: The Bristol Channel’s strong tides and fast-changing weather can make approaches tricky. Watch for lobster pots in summer.

• Timing: Aim to arrive within ±2 hours of HW; contact the harbour on VHF Ch. 14 for advice.

Once inside, you’ll find a snug and sheltered spot — though in settled weather only, as there’s little protection in heavy swell. If you are a fin keel, make sure ballast is shifted to the wall side. Mooring against the wall is not advisable in strong Northerly winds.

🛟 Harbour Policy on Dogs

Dogs are welcome around Ilfracombe Harbour but must be kept on a lead, unless on a beach. Svea was in her element due to our mooring predicament. Waste bins are available, and most harbourfront shops and cafés will happily provide a water bowl for thirsty pups.

🐾 Dog Walks from the Harbour

Ilfracombe is blessed with scenic walks right from the quay:

1. Capstone Hill Path – A short climb with panoramic views over the harbour and Lundy Island on a clear day. It also has easy access to Wildersmouth beach - another small dog friendly beach that Svea enjoyed.

1. South West Coast Path (East) – Head towards Hele Bay for a beautiful cliffside walk.

2. South West Coast Path (West) – For a longer trek, head towards Lee Bay through rugged coastal scenery.

3. Rapparee Cove – A small, quiet beach where dogs can explore at low tide.

🍻 Dog-Friendly Pubs & Cafes

Ilfracombe has plenty of dog-welcoming places to refuel after a sail or a walk:

• Ilfracome Yacht Club - situated right in front of the harbour, with views both across the bay and across the harbour. It is dog friendly both inside and out. Opening times vary.

• The Pier Brewery Tap & Grill – Great food, harbour views, and dogs welcome inside.

• The Royal Britannia Hotel – Harbourfront with outdoor seating and a friendly policy for four-legged visitors.

• Coffee Break – Small café with big flavour, and dogs welcome indoors.

• The George & Dragon – Traditional pub with hearty meals and a dog-friendly bar area.

• Lynbay Fish & Chips – Perfect for takeaway on the quay with your dog by your side.

🌊 Why Stop Here?

Ilfracombe was our most challenging stop yet. For eight hours we were the talk of the town. Luckily nothing was damaged except our pride. This isn’t the easiest port to enter, but it makes up for the effort with dramatic scenery, a characterful harbour town, and plenty of dog-friendly hospitality. A memorable stop on the Bristol Channel, though for us, memorable for all the wrong reasons!