St Mary’s (Isles of Scilly)

Sailing into the Isles of Scilly feels like slipping into another world, one of turquoise seas, soft white sand, and a pace of life that makes you forget the mainland even exists. St Mary’s, the largest of the islands, is the gateway for visiting yachts and the perfect place for both sailors and dogs to stretch their legs after an adventurous passage. We left Padstow at 02:45 to leave on an ebb and ensure that we arrived just before high water. We had planned to go to St Ives, however this would have been another night against a wall. Given out past history of walls and as the weather looked good, we opted for a longer passage with an early start. It was worth the journey .. bo

⚓ The Approach

Getting to St Mary's, after crossing the TSS, takes a little care. The pilotage is intricate, with shifting sands and scattered rocks, so good charts and daylight are essential. We managed to grab the second to last yellow visitors mooring in the bay and caught the last water taxi of the day (they finish at 16:30) so that Svea could stretch her legs. As there are no pontoons, the water taxi is a brilliant way to explore without lifting the anchor. Svea, of course, thought it was her own private chauffeur service. 🐶🚤

🐕 Walks on St Mary’s

St Mary’s is a dog-walking paradise. Within minutes of Hugh Town you’ll find quiet lanes, sandy beaches, and cliff paths that make you feel like you’re at the edge of the world.

• The Garrison Walk 🏰 — a gentle circular loop around the historic headland with stunning views back over the anchorage. Great for a morning stretch.

The start of the Garrison walk

• Pelistry Bay 🌊 - one of the prettiest beaches on the island, perfect for dogs to run wild at low tide.

• Old Town Beach 🏝️ - quiet and sheltered, with shallow water for paddling paws.

• The Nature Trails 🌿 - cross the island through fields and heather, spotting seabirds along the way.

Svea had the best time bouncing between sand, sea, and cliff tops, the ultimate dog adventure playground.

🍴 Dog-Friendly Stops

Hugh Town might be small, but it packs in plenty of sailor- and dog-friendly spots:

• The Atlantic Inn 🍻 - a lively pub with harbour views, hearty food, and dogs welcome inside and out.

• Juliette's garden restaurant ☕🐾 - a beautiful stop with panoramic views across the bay and water bowls at the ready. Opens at 10am for coffee and offers a lovely lunch.

• The Mermaid Inn 🐟🍺 - popular with locals and sailors alike, and happy to host four-legged crew.

• The Bishop and the Wolf - Great pub that offers a pint and a pasty for £12. Great internet, so Pete caught up with a bit of work whilst Jen explored the town.

• On the Quay 🐾🥂 - a little more refined, but dogs are welcome on the terrace with beautiful sunset views.

And if you’re just after a casual snack, most cafés are happy for dogs to flop under the table while you tuck into pasties or cream teas.

⛵ Skipper’s Tips

• Arrive in daylight - the approach is beautiful, but rocks are unforgiving.

• Grab a mooring early in summer; they fill up fast.

• Keep cash handy for water taxis, and be ready to plan your evening around their timetable. We found that they stopped running at 16:30, however with a little persuading, they could offer a service a little later at double or triple the going rate (£10)

• Shops close early, so stock up when you can. There was one co-op in town with queues that never seemed to go down. Day trippers pop in for the meal deal so try to pop in before the tourist day trippers for Penzance arrive.

🌞 Final Thoughts

St Mary’s is less about polished marina comforts and more about simple, salty, island life. It’s a place where you swim off the boat in the morning, walk barefoot on beaches by afternoon, and sip a pint with your dog snoozing at your feet by evening. Svea was in heaven and honestly, so were we. 🐾❤️